Mele Beach, October 2009

To get a little bit out of town and waiting that the trade winds shift to East, we moved to Mele. It’s a nice bay 6 miles away from port Vila.

There are many things to do and see. The secret garden, tells about the history and customs of Vanuatu, and has a nice swimming pool.

The waterfall, with his resting area at the bottom and the nice walk to reach the top if it, is another place to visit.

Close to the beach we found in a disaffected church the factory that roasts and condition the Tanna café. On Tanna Island 256 farmers produce around 37 tons of coffee beans that are conditioned in Mele and exported world wide.

Vanuatu and also other Pacific Islands are known for the famous Kava drink. They grind the roots of a kind of pepper tree and extract a bitter concentrate you drink in a coconut shell. It’s relaxing and makes your mouth numb. Too much and you fall down.

They also developed a soft drink based on kava and it’s mixed with cola. You can feel the taste of kava but it’s less bitter.

In the evening there is a bar at the beach to bugger around. The sunset is stoning, enjoying a cool beer.

The volley ball field just in front of the bar provides life sport.

Port Vila, Efate, 22 September 2009

We left Epy Island for Port Vila the capital on Efate September 17. The 80 miles trip was again beating in the SE trade winds. We ended in Havanna bay, a nice sheltered place and spent 2 days there. The 21th we moved around the corner and ended in Mele Bay.

Next day we made it to port Vila

First we brought the cruising permit to the Customs, than we approached the French Embassy and the New Zealand Hi commission to apply visas for Pui.

We anchored close to the Reriki resort in 10m of water with a lot of chain because the holding is bad.

We had the visit from Greenpeace, the vessel Esperanza anchored outside for couple of days.

I had to organize repairs and have spear parts delivered. Tacktick sent me a new wind transmitter.

After a 5 month battle in email exchanges and damages on the yacht, Raymarine sent me a replacement S1G autopilot.

I went to see my friend Eric on the yacht Musique tohave my sails fixed. He is a sail maker. I met him with his wife Odile and Kids Loïc and Zoé 9 years ago in New Zealand.

They live in Vanuatu, and built a magnificent house around a banian tree.

Eric invited us for a barbecue over the week end together with Valérie Manu and kids Lucas Ange from the yacht Betzi. We spent a nice day in a peace full place.

Eric involved locals to help him to build the house

At the beginning they couldn’t understand him. Usually they cut the trees around the house to avoid them to fall on it rather than build the house around it.

We looked for little boatyard who builds aluminum boats to get a tube to fix the profile of the roller furler.

It’s located close to the power station from Tagabe. With the 11 wind generators up the hill, they provide electricity to Port Vila.

They are able to run the diesel engines with coconut oil. That makes them independent from crude oil, stimulates the local economy, and is environmentally friendly.

On the way to the New Zealand High

Commission to get Pui’s visa, there is a nice walk to do along the Waterfront

The water is crystal clear and color full.

Of course the fresh market is like every were very color full and there are always interesting thing to see, like a set of crab nicely wrapped ready to be dumped in boiling water.

Watch the claws!

One day, early in the morning, we could hear a profound sound of an engine running close to our yacht. As we put the head out, we see in front of us a tanker making his way to the fuel depot at the end of the bay.

It was high tide and with a 1.5m tide he had just 3 m draft at the entrance, I couldn’t believe it. He seems to be used to.

Eric told us that one he had to ballast on one side to hell the cargo to get in.

We fear them in open water, but I admire them when they have to maneuver in confined spaces.

Lamen Bay, Epi Island, 10 September 2009

A 30 miles trip brought us to Lamen Bay on Epi Island. It was for a change a choppy passage. Lamen Bay is the home of Dugongs. They leave more on Lamen Island, but one of them comes in Lamen Bay and is very friendly. He let you snorkel around him while his is “vacuuming” the ground for grass.


In earlier times he was hunted by the locals for his meet. Today they are protected because the species is endangered.


We didn’t meet the dugong, but many turtles swim around. We also view stingrays and many colored fishes as we went snorkeling.
People leaving on Lamen Island paddle every morning to the mainland and walk to their gardens. In the evening they sail back using a palm leave as sail.

Walking thru the village, we smell bread passing in front of the restaurant. We asked if it’s possible to get some. Melanie tells us that his father Joseph is the backer of the village, and she was happy to sell us a loaf of bread. Then we walked to his place and met Joseph. He told us that he is short on flour, but would be happy to make some for us. We explained him that her daughter already sold us some.
He invited us to stay for lunch and we enjoyed lap lap with sweet potatoes, sweet jam and long green beans on a coconut sauce. It was delicious.

On the way back we stopped at he dingy, looked to the yacht bouncing sideways and decided to extend our trip on shore.


We went to the airfield. It’s just a dirt road covered with grass boarded by trees along the beach. At the hall we discovered what is left from the lawnmower.

On the way back we stopped at the entrance of a property looking like a resort.
Three ladies walk to us and I introduce myself Bernard from Switzerland and Pui from Thailand. She holds my hand, looks at me and says; you already have been here? Yes I answer, in 2000.
Then I recognized Mackin, she was teacher at the high school, I got tears in my eyes and hugged her.


In 2000 we were invited with my friend François on SY Galopin in her classroom to tell the kids about our country.

The classroom was quite and all the eyes looking at us, Mackin taking notes. That was a nice souvenir.

Her alder daughter is 20. She is leaving next week for 7 years to Cuba to do her medicine studies to become a doctor.


She will be away from home all this the time.

As we were talking, she invited us to her garden. The place was magic, in the forest they open lots were they grow the vegetables. The lots are passed from generation to generation. Everything grows; it’s just limited by your imagination.


We got carrots, red radish, lettuce, Chinese cabbage, capsicum, we also got limes. One lot is used for one year, and then put to rest for 3 years. In earlier times they would let rest the lots longer, but population increasing it shortens the turn over.

I was so happy to meet Mackin again; we left the place with peace in my hart.

Banan Bay, Malakula, 6 September 2009

We left Ranon in the morning for a 26 miles trip to Banan Bay. Half the trip was sheltered behind Ambrym and the rest exposed to our favorite SE trade winds.

When we arrived, a magnificent square rigger named Alvie was on anchor in the bay with a Vanuatu registration Flag. First we thought it was a charter boat for tourists.

Later we found out that she was on a medical mission.

Volunteers pay for their staying on board and participate to all the tasks involved. They help and skill the locals how to make concrete to have a solid bottom in their huts.

They also bring them water tanks and collecting water system to increase water capacity for their hygiene, to help to reduce tropical infections that affect the population. The other approach would be to stuff them with antibiotics. We like the first approach.

Marie on her little canoe came to us to say that tomorrow evening will be a custom dance going on. Next morning we went to meet Chief Saitol to get some details.

In fact, nothing was organized, and we told him that it would be the two of us plus people from the square rigger.

The place is well known for his custom dance. He asked us to be at a quarter past three sharp at the beach. The cost is 1500 VUV each. During the day other yachts came in and we ended 21 persons at the beach for the show.

We had a magnificent performance. First the men performed.

Then the women presented their performance. The group sitting in the back was giving the rhythm, and the two rows of ladies were passing and crossing each other.

Chief Saitol also organized two magic tours.

First two men carry a young boy bent over a bed of leaves. Them they put him on the ground, and the two men end each with a handful of leaves in the hand.

No leave is torn.

The second part consist on a banana leave fringed on one side of it, see step 1 in the picture. Next step, the man cut the full side of the leave.

As they shake the leave in the air, the banana leave is complete again,

see step 3.

Ranon, Ambrym Island, 3 September 2009

A 12 miles passage brought us to Ranon on Ambrym.

Ambrym has two active volcano vents that glow red hot at night in full sight. This volcanic Island is home to some Vanuatu’s most powerful black magic.

Mount Towo is the second highest on the Island. The Northern part of the Island is a low risk zone from the volcano. West, East and Southern part are more exposed zones. The ash plain around the vents is high risk zones.

A two day trip can be organized up to the vents. The beach is made of black sand.

We met Jeffrey and walked with him around the village. The houses are traditionally built and he told us that his house cost him the price of the nails.

Some pigs run free around, others are kept behind fences. He feeds them with ripe coconuts. For sure the meet will taste fine.

A small shop provides fresh Bread every day.
The wood carver works close to the cooking place so the shaves fly from his chisel strait into the fire.

We also met Berry; he is in charge of the information center. He can organize you a lot of activities. Like in Pentecost, every year many cruising ships visit the place for his famous Rom dance. We asked if they would perform the dance just for the two of us. He said that it’s possible to have one organized. Ok, the price is 4’200 VUV each plus 1’000 VUV for the guide.

Next day we met him at 8 o’clock and we walked one hour up the mountain to Fanla village.

He explained us that right now the men from the village were busy cleaning a new place for the gardening. We were surprised when he told us that they use one garden place for one harvest and then let it recover during three year before reusing it again. Of course bush takes over and it needs to be cleaned.

As the dance started, immediately we could feel the intensity of the performance. We were sitting about 15 m from the dancer and we could feel the vibration of their foot print under our feet’s.

The dance last about 30 minutes and I got into the strength of the rhythm.


The text I the picture explains the mystery and the origin of the Rom Dance.




















We were a little bit skeptics after Homo bay about what the performance would be. They didn’t disappoint us, even for two people it was breath tacking, and we highly recommend the detour.

Paul and Frances from Australia invited us for a string band performance organized on the beach in the late afternoon by the Patadon String Band. Paul is musician and plays guitar. He came with a little mixing table and mike to record the group. They did well.

Paul designed the cover and we printed the covers and burned 6 CD we put in boxes we were storing since ages on the boat, to give them.

Paul kept one for the radio station in Luganville. They perhaps will come on the air.

Homo Bay, Pentecost Island, 2 September 2009

The place is known for his land jumping from Nagol Towers. They used to jump in March and April on Saturdays only. It became so popular that now they extended the shows in May and June. Many Cursing ships bring tourists for the event and the locals make big money.

A floating peer was built to facilitate the access.


In September 2000 we had a warm welcome. With Chief Willy we organized the visit of his son’s village, had a custom dance organized for us, and we could see the tower.




I wanted to show Pui how it looks like. We went ashore, asked people at the beach to talk to the Chief.
Nobody paid attention.

So we walked towards the village and asked around to talk to him. Finally we met somebody and were told that Chief Willy died 2 years ago.


We asked if it’s possible to visit the towers, we were answered that the towers no longer stay. It’s the first place in Vanuatu were we didn’t get a warm welcome. We didn’t insist, made our way back to the yacht and left next day.


The pictures are from 2000 apart the peer.

Traditional Yam cooking

Anika’s village organized a show that explains the traditional way of cooking lap lap.

First they peal the yam, and then grate it with the base of a palm tree leaf.

Then the paste is wrapped in banana leafs.

They make a fire to heat stones and then cover the wrapped leafs with it and let it cook to perfection.

The cake is then covered with coconut milk and cut in pieces. We eat some and drank coconut water with it and liked it.

Asanvari, Maewo Island, 24 August 2009

We left Vanihe Bay at half past seven and made our way to Asanvari on Maewo Island.

We made the 16 mile trip in fair SE winds 15 to 20 knots and anchored in front of the village at mid day. The sail set on Salulami is small, 3 reefs in the main and a staysail on the flying forestay.

We are probably the only one around Vanuatu looking for 20 knots and more of wind. We get it from the SE and it’s on the nose.

I visited Asanvari 9 years ago, and I was curious to see what changed in this time. We met Chief Nixon and a grey beard grows on his face. A Yacht Club was built in 2002. Nice job done with the help of a Canadian yachtie. Some body left a DVD player and a flat screen. A collection of movies gives some entertainment to the kids and the adults.

I burned a CD with the picture from yesterday and today. They enjoyed the pictures recognizing themselves 9 years younger.

I remember Chief Nixon asking us for petrol to run his generator. Today the problem is solved. The ICA raised funds to buy a water generator that has been installed close to the water fall. Now it needs competence to maintain the unit. Passing yachts give some of their time to help. The biggest problem is to get the spear parts.

So with bits and pieces you keep the system working until the next comes and makes it better hoping by the time the spears got there.

Nothing is easy.

One “good” thing is the cell phone; it’s everywhere and makes communication much easier. You see the Ni Vanuatu (inhabitant of Vanuatu) with the bush knife in one hand and the cell phone in the other. If you spend some time in the Island, airtime can be a well appreciated gift. Digicel is the most popular.

Chief Nixon organized a welcome ceremony and each yacht adopted a family from the village. After presentation we had a reduced custom dance. Chief Nixon lost his second son who was teacher two weeks ago and the villagers were not in the mood to perform.

They made us Kava the traditional way. It’s a bitter drink made out of grated the roots. It has some relaxing effects and your lips get numb. I only needed to drink one to get it.

Then we had a feast with a hot stone cooked pig in the ground and a string band after the meal.

We met Hatson, his wife Anika and 3 month old sun Jude. It was a unique opportunity to get into their daily life. Every thing is simple and stills the same than 9 years ago.

Transportation between Islands is not easy for them. Airplane is too expensive, the ferry (barge) comes from time to time and they also use their one little power boat to get where they need to go. Anika lost her two daughter 8 and 6 years old as one of this boat capsized in bad weather. She fears water and didn’t want to come a board Salulami.