Homo Bay, Pentecost Island, 2 September 2009

The place is known for his land jumping from Nagol Towers. They used to jump in March and April on Saturdays only. It became so popular that now they extended the shows in May and June. Many Cursing ships bring tourists for the event and the locals make big money.

A floating peer was built to facilitate the access.


In September 2000 we had a warm welcome. With Chief Willy we organized the visit of his son’s village, had a custom dance organized for us, and we could see the tower.




I wanted to show Pui how it looks like. We went ashore, asked people at the beach to talk to the Chief.
Nobody paid attention.

So we walked towards the village and asked around to talk to him. Finally we met somebody and were told that Chief Willy died 2 years ago.


We asked if it’s possible to visit the towers, we were answered that the towers no longer stay. It’s the first place in Vanuatu were we didn’t get a warm welcome. We didn’t insist, made our way back to the yacht and left next day.


The pictures are from 2000 apart the peer.

Traditional Yam cooking

Anika’s village organized a show that explains the traditional way of cooking lap lap.

First they peal the yam, and then grate it with the base of a palm tree leaf.

Then the paste is wrapped in banana leafs.

They make a fire to heat stones and then cover the wrapped leafs with it and let it cook to perfection.

The cake is then covered with coconut milk and cut in pieces. We eat some and drank coconut water with it and liked it.

Asanvari, Maewo Island, 24 August 2009

We left Vanihe Bay at half past seven and made our way to Asanvari on Maewo Island.

We made the 16 mile trip in fair SE winds 15 to 20 knots and anchored in front of the village at mid day. The sail set on Salulami is small, 3 reefs in the main and a staysail on the flying forestay.

We are probably the only one around Vanuatu looking for 20 knots and more of wind. We get it from the SE and it’s on the nose.

I visited Asanvari 9 years ago, and I was curious to see what changed in this time. We met Chief Nixon and a grey beard grows on his face. A Yacht Club was built in 2002. Nice job done with the help of a Canadian yachtie. Some body left a DVD player and a flat screen. A collection of movies gives some entertainment to the kids and the adults.

I burned a CD with the picture from yesterday and today. They enjoyed the pictures recognizing themselves 9 years younger.

I remember Chief Nixon asking us for petrol to run his generator. Today the problem is solved. The ICA raised funds to buy a water generator that has been installed close to the water fall. Now it needs competence to maintain the unit. Passing yachts give some of their time to help. The biggest problem is to get the spear parts.

So with bits and pieces you keep the system working until the next comes and makes it better hoping by the time the spears got there.

Nothing is easy.

One “good” thing is the cell phone; it’s everywhere and makes communication much easier. You see the Ni Vanuatu (inhabitant of Vanuatu) with the bush knife in one hand and the cell phone in the other. If you spend some time in the Island, airtime can be a well appreciated gift. Digicel is the most popular.

Chief Nixon organized a welcome ceremony and each yacht adopted a family from the village. After presentation we had a reduced custom dance. Chief Nixon lost his second son who was teacher two weeks ago and the villagers were not in the mood to perform.

They made us Kava the traditional way. It’s a bitter drink made out of grated the roots. It has some relaxing effects and your lips get numb. I only needed to drink one to get it.

Then we had a feast with a hot stone cooked pig in the ground and a string band after the meal.

We met Hatson, his wife Anika and 3 month old sun Jude. It was a unique opportunity to get into their daily life. Every thing is simple and stills the same than 9 years ago.

Transportation between Islands is not easy for them. Airplane is too expensive, the ferry (barge) comes from time to time and they also use their one little power boat to get where they need to go. Anika lost her two daughter 8 and 6 years old as one of this boat capsized in bad weather. She fears water and didn’t want to come a board Salulami.

Vanihe Bay, Ambae Island, 22 August 2009

We left Oyster bay 6 o’clock in the morning at high tide. Ones out at sea we made a 48 miles passage close hold in quite strong winds from SE for a change up to 30 knots. We were quite comfortable with the little main sail and half the Genoa. We were not alone; yachts from the rally headed the same way than us.

Ones behind Ambae Island the wind dropt. I unfurled the Genoa and heard twice a cling clang. The fixing of my profile didn’t hold and I lost the plates I used to reinforce the roller. We anchored in Vanihe Bay at 4 o’clock in the afternoon; Lolowei Bay was crowded with the yachts from the rally.

Next morning, looking to take out the staysail from the locker under the bed in the front cabin, we had a nice surprise, it’s full of saltwater.
We had to empty the entire forward cabin and put everything out to dry. We spent all day to get every thing back to normal.

My anchor locker has an access from the forward cabin and the door is not water tide, just water resistant. We collected this water in the storm we went thru.

Oyster Island, 13 August 2009.

Oyster Island is a very sheltered place on the East side of Espiritu Santo, 16 miles from Luganville. The southern entrance is very well marked. There are 4 pairs of posts. Ones you past the first set on starboard you’ll find an anchorage in 10m of water.

The three other set of posts can be passed preferably at high tide. We came in at a neap low tide of 0.3m and passed with 2m below water line. After that it’s clear. Me made our way north for another half mile, passed the resort and anchored in 9m of water on a sandy bottom.

15 other boars were in the bay. It’s was a rally coming from Fiji. The ICA organizes every year a trip from NZ to Tonga Fiji Vanuatu New Caledonia back to NZ.

The resort is owned and managed by a Kiwi Staff. The resort is welcoming to cruisers; Internet via Wi-fi was free but not reliable. We found the services and restaurant prices very expensive. Garbage bin small 300VUV, no water, beer at happy hour 350VUV. Transportation to town 2500VUV /person on way, etc… Coming from Asia, prices are a hammer.

We went with the dingy up the river to the blue hole. As you come up the river it gets more narrow, greens covers the water, you think we are at the end, no no, keep on going, and suddenly you end in a blue pool, the water is crystal clear. The scenery is beautiful.

The rally organized a water music festival. Women stand in the water and splash the surface such a way that it gives music. It’s quite a wet way to play music but very efficient.

We also spent some time trying to fix the profile of the roller furling. Unfortunately it didn’t last long.

Luganville, Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu, 11 August 2009.

For the clearance you have to go ashore to meet the officials. Nobody in on VHF watch.

West of the anchorage is a small harbor; it belongs to the diving center. We asked permission to tie up the dingy on their dock.

From there you walk up to the main street, and take a right. The road will split in two in a Y.
At the intersection on the right is the immigration. If you take the right branch of the Y and walk done to the Warf, Custom are just at the right after the entrance.

For the quarantine, take the left branch of the Y and walk past the T intersection. They are 300m on the left side of the road. They asked us if we have garbage, if so it mite be good to bring it with you.

After the clearance, you must go and see Custom to get the inter island permit. By the immigration you get initially one month, but you can ask strait away for more (up to 4 month), you will feel more comfortable visiting the different places.

Luganville is well furbished, and they have a nice market. Places sell meet and seafood.

Passage Honiara to Luganville, August 2009

We left Honiara August 1st and made our way Eastward passing North of San Cristobal to have the advantage of the land breezes, also to get a better angle in the wind. Along San Cristobal we had Easterly winds, and as we past the Island the wind shifted SE for a change. The best course we were doing was south.

August 6th around 10 o’clock in the morning, as we were sailing thru squalls with two reefs in the main and half the genoas rolled in, we got hit by 50 knots of wind one of a sudden, this was not forecasted.

As I was looking to put the life jacket on to go out to take the third reef in the main, the autopilot failed and I had to take over. By the time we hived to, the main sail exploded. Ones the yacht stabilized, I could go out to take the third reef in the main. We hived to until 6 o’clock next day, waiting the sea to calm down. We drifted 72 miles westwards.

Pui got the fright of her life, I was happy that she staid inside the yacht talking to Buddha to be merciful to us. Then winds turned SSE and we could make it to Luganville. Later it came out that the profile from the roller furling got twisted at the base.

We arrived in Luganville August 10th by mid day at the quarantine buoy, position 15°30.92 S; 167°11.00 E.

We made the passage in 9 days 4 hours.
Distance 871 Nm
We motored 88 hours (3.6 days)