Dear friends and relatives,
We are still alive and well, just having problems to add new messages into the blog. We are at the present in Honiara Solomon Island, waiting for the SE to ease so we can head to Vanuatu.
As soon as possible more will be edited.
PNG Kavieng June 2009
We anchored in
We met Adam from
Inquire at: mailto:tikitu@adventuresinparadise.com.pg
Kavieng (NE of New Ireland) is also a place to surf when it’s the season around December, and of course diving in crystal clear waters.
PNG has been the theater of the Second World War, and many Japanese relics on land and wrecks in the sea can be visited.
Nusa Island Retreat just opposite of the Government Wharf is a very relaxing place with a lot of pets starting from a sea eagle, parrots, hornbill, awl, turtle, lizard and more leaving there, all injured ones and brought from locals.
Visit: http://www.nusaislandretreat.com.pg/
After 
Market is colorful, and on week-ends (Saturday being the best day) locals bring the fresh vegetables and fruits from the plateau where it’s cooler to grow vegetables.
The supermarkets are very well furbished; it’s more expensive coming from
We do our own yogurt using powder milk that we dilute in water and heat to
Ones it turned solid we keep it in the fridge and enjoy it.
Last year in Miri we had the opportunity to buy the Easiyo kit with instant natural yogurt powder packs in spare to start a new yogurt if it comes too. No need!
We discovered the megapode eggs.
You can buy the diesel in
One day we made an excursion on
They are huge and the rust is doing his job slowly.
Wednesday, June 19 we cleared out by custom and got a cruising permit. We did a last fresh shopping at the market and went back to the yacht to make her ready to leave Saturday morning.
After a last refreshing beer at the resort at sundown, we said goodbye to all the friendly people we met and went to sleep.
Saturday morning at 8 o clock after breakfast wet started the engine hoist the anchor left the comfortable Duck Pond and made our way thru Steffen Strait to Kokopo.
On the way to Kavieng PNG
We left Davao Thursday May 21 at 9 o clock in the morning. We had to motor our way out like we did the first time. We got thunderstorms all around us on the way out that made turn winds all around. We made a 54 miles trip this first day.Day 2, Friday.
At 2 o clock in the morning we past Cape San Augustin. We encountered a very strong current of 25 knots heading south all the day. The yacht was close/hold and had a bearing of 85 ° on the surface of the water and going 135 ° on the ground. It’s walking like a crab. The Ideal course is 111 °.
In the morning dolphins came around the yacht to greet us and went their way.
Light winds 5 knots from N to NE turning E at night and flat sea. It makes it easy to get your sea legs. Nice starry nights and squalls to give a push. We made 87 miles.
Day3, Saturday.
In the morning dolphins came around the yacht to greet us and went their way.Light winds 5 knots from N to NE turning E at night and flat sea. It makes it easy to get your sea legs. Nice starry nights and squalls to give a push. We made 87 miles.
Day3, Saturday.
Winds are still light from ENE turning NE in the evening. The current is giving up and we are beam reach going more or less in the right direction.Starry night and a squall for the push. We also crossed 2 cargos. One passed half a mile ahead of us, we called to say hallo, no answer.
At least the radar was on. We made 72 miles.
Day4, Sunday.
We have almost no winds, crazy currents, and there is no reason to waist fuel. We drop the sails and wait. The yacht is pointing south and a southerly current of 1 knot is moving us N. we are going backwards. A smooth swell is bouncing the yacht and we organise shade.The temperature in the yacht rises up to 33 °C, and water temperature is about 31.5°C.
In the afternoon light NE less than 5 knots easing at night pushes us in the right direction and brings comfort on the yacht. We made 48 miles.
Day5, Monday.
Grib files (weather forecast downloaded from sailmail (HF email transmission system)) tell us about light easterlies coming, and VPP mention’s funny currents. This day we made a nice Z on the chart plotter. In the evening a squall gave us a nice one hour push then some stars showed up in the calm night, sails flapping and progressing slowly slowly. We managed to put 38 miles on the counter today. Ouhaaa!
Day6 Tuesday.
No wind de chez no wind. In French.
In English : pas de vent from pas de vent.
At 6 0clock in the morning I have a good excuse to start the engine to cool down the fridge. We get water temperature up to 32°C during the day falling down to 30°C at night. The fridge warm up quickly. After one hour motoring, really no wind, so we keep on going under engine.The good news is we past the tricky current zone.
Having breakfast in the cockpit we see a trunk on the water. It has a fin like a dolphin on the top. As I said that the trunk starts to move it was really a dolphin and went away. Only one dolphin, was he resting?
In the afternoon we meet him again motionless on the surface of the see. As we pass, he or she swims away. 
At one o clock after lunch we get some -->
It’s coming from SE. Unfortunately nothing to fill the sails. Pui is having a nap while I’m writing these files.
We motored 19 hours on a mirror and made 72 miles.
Day7, Wednesday
Day7, Wednesday
New situation, early in the morning the wind turned SSW not very strong for a change but gives us on beam reach a speed of 3.5 knots. I’m tempted to hoist the asymmetrical spinnaker, but every time I do that, it scares the wind and he disappears.At 8 o’clock the wind gets stronger and we start to make a good mileage. We have 1.5 knots of current with us. At sunset we entered a squall zone and wind turned NW and fall, we found Yanmar wind. (Brand of my engine).
For diner me made a nice pizza and had a glass of red wine Dick from the diving place in Davao offered us. We have a record, 107 miles today.
Day 8, Thursday
By sunrise a very dark cloud with light and sound behind us brings so much wind that I have to put 2 reefs in the main and roll the Genoa to the size of a handkerchief.
For 40 minutes we were doing over 6 knots. It’s not Pui’s favourite. Ones you passed the squall the wind started to go in every direction keeping me busy taking a reef in, reduce the Genoa, tack,
reef out, jibe, unroll Genoa and so on for all the morning. I learned to wait 15 minutes when the situation changes. As soon I was taking action the wind changed, like he was waiting to fool me. A squall builds up waves. When the wind drops, the waves stay and it start’s to bounce the yacht and flap the sails. Usually I put engine on to stay with the waves to avoid it until the next wind fills the sails to bring stability. Light winds WSW in the afternoon and the sun showed up.
By sunrise a very dark cloud with light and sound behind us brings so much wind that I have to put 2 reefs in the main and roll the Genoa to the size of a handkerchief.
For 40 minutes we were doing over 6 knots. It’s not Pui’s favourite. Ones you passed the squall the wind started to go in every direction keeping me busy taking a reef in, reduce the Genoa, tack,
reef out, jibe, unroll Genoa and so on for all the morning. I learned to wait 15 minutes when the situation changes. As soon I was taking action the wind changed, like he was waiting to fool me. A squall builds up waves. When the wind drops, the waves stay and it start’s to bounce the yacht and flap the sails. Usually I put engine on to stay with the waves to avoid it until the next wind fills the sails to bring stability. Light winds WSW in the afternoon and the sun showed up. Today we made 91 miles.
Day 9 and 10. Friday, Saturday
All same same, accumulating mileage. We made 175 miles.
Oh! I forgot we made a beautiful pizza cheese and Onion. Now Apple (older sister from Pui) do you believe that Pui makes pizza?
We crossed one fishing boat. They were busy sleeping, working at night. They use bright lights, and at night you see them over the horizon meaning there is a city in the vicinity.
Day 9 and 10. Friday, Saturday
All same same, accumulating mileage. We made 175 miles.
Oh! I forgot we made a beautiful pizza cheese and Onion. Now Apple (older sister from Pui) do you believe that Pui makes pizza?We crossed one fishing boat. They were busy sleeping, working at night. They use bright lights, and at night you see them over the horizon meaning there is a city in the vicinity.
Day 11 Sunday
That was a day. The wind is coming from the direction we are going to. That made us tack and tack and tic tac! And go around squalls accelerating the wind keeping me busy taking in and out reefs in the main sail and in the Genoa.
Finally in the evening the wind settled NE so we could get back on track. It was not comfortable at all and Pui was laying down on floor for all the day. It’s the place in the yacht close to the water line were the bouncing is little.We made 91 miles unfortunately not in the right direction.
Day 12 and 13 Monday, Tuesday
Another 2 days in paradise. Calm with a lot of motoring. For the two days we motored 29.7 hours and put 164 miles on the counter.
Another 2 days in paradise. Calm with a lot of motoring. For the two days we motored 29.7 hours and put 164 miles on the counter.Pui made bread. Delicious to eat with pâté de foie. I made ginger beer.
We reached 1000 miles on Tuesday 13th in the afternoon and still 500 miles to go.
Day 14 Wednesday
Very calm morning with again for a change little wind. Before noon, looking south I see a very dark horizon. Not just a patch announcing a squall but a wall, and it’s coming towards us. I start to take a reef in the main, wing is gradually picking up. I reduce the Genoa and take a second reef in the main.
Salulami is flying on the water at 6.9 knots, wind coming from SW gust to 30 knots, every thing well on board, just the rudder gets hard and the autopilot has difficulties to steer the boat.
Very calm morning with again for a change little wind. Before noon, looking south I see a very dark horizon. Not just a patch announcing a squall but a wall, and it’s coming towards us. I start to take a reef in the main, wing is gradually picking up. I reduce the Genoa and take a second reef in the main.
Salulami is flying on the water at 6.9 knots, wind coming from SW gust to 30 knots, every thing well on board, just the rudder gets hard and the autopilot has difficulties to steer the boat.
I put the Aries (wind steering unit) in action and he takes over without problem.Two hours later back to normal bouncing yacht, flapping sails, Pui getting some colours back in her face.
We came across 2 logs in this front, the first 10 m away on port, the next one 10 minutes later on starboard about 20 m away. These were number 6 and 7 we came across during our passage.
In the afternoon a tuna fishing boat past just behind us, we waved them but got no feedback.
When I was in the Indian Ocean I came also across the same units.
These are from Concarneau in France and based in the Seychelles.
They put out 15 km long nets. The meshes of these nets are not bigger than a pack of cigarettes. One of this net fill a big overseas container. In one catch they take 1500 tons of fish. No wonder that oceans get empty.
We made 90 miles with 14h motoring.
Day 15 Thursday
Big event. We past the equator at Longitude 142°32.33 E in the afternoon.
I showed Pui the yellow line on the water that separates the northern part of the globe from the southern part. She didn’t believe me.
These are from Concarneau in France and based in the Seychelles.
They put out 15 km long nets. The meshes of these nets are not bigger than a pack of cigarettes. One of this net fill a big overseas container. In one catch they take 1500 tons of fish. No wonder that oceans get empty.
We made 90 miles with 14h motoring.
Day 15 Thursday
Big event. We past the equator at Longitude 142°32.33 E in the afternoon.I showed Pui the yellow line on the water that separates the northern part of the globe from the southern part. She didn’t believe me.
This day we had a nice SW wind. We motored 4.5h and made 80 miles in 22 hours. We changed the clocks to PNG time UTC +10.
Day 16 Friday
Light winds in the day for a change.
In the late afternoon, we see on the horizon a strange item floating.
Not being far from islands my first thought was a canoe. We head to it and found out it’s a Fish Attraction Devices, the same we came across in Celebes Sea.
Day 16 Friday
Light winds in the day for a change.
In the late afternoon, we see on the horizon a strange item floating.Not being far from islands my first thought was a canoe. We head to it and found out it’s a Fish Attraction Devices, the same we came across in Celebes Sea.
In the same time new wind settled in and for all the night we had the first time real sailing. First beam reach turning close hold Salulami going 6 knots on the ground for 16 hours.We made 94 miles with 7 hours motoring.
Day 17 Saturday
That was a nice sailing day SW winds 10 to 15 knots gave us a nice push. We had to reef and set the wind steering. A Cloudy day. We made 96 miles with only 6 hours motoring.
Day 18 Sunday
That was a sailing day too, like you expect on a passage. At a time we were surfing on the waves, wind blowing from behind. We had to put 2 reefs in the main the rudder getting hard on the drive unit. Then we put the wind steering in gear and all went fine. We reached 98 miles with 4 hours motoring only.
Day 19 Monday 200 miles to go.
No wind and rain rain rain and rain. We cached 50 litres of fresh water to put in the tank. We have been told that the tap water in Kavien needs to de treated.
Day 20 Tuesday
2 o’clock in the morning we pass 30 m away from a big log that we can see thanks the moon shine. We motored almost all day and achieved 90 miles with 18 hours Yanmar wind.
Fresh vegetables are finished and Pui makes wonder with the tin food.
Day 21 Wednesday
At sunset we see Land. It’s New Hanover, and we have still 70 miles to go. Wind is coming from NE and we can set sails and stop the motor. Very calm day listening to music, reading, relaxing.We made 75 miles this day.
For the night we had to slow down to arrive by bay light at the North entrance.
Day 22 Thursday
7 o’clock in the morning we get in the channel. The chart as an offset but the water is clear and there is no problem to find the way thru crystal clear water. At 8 o’clock we drop the anchor in front of the Government Warf.
We met Custom at 9 o’clock.
Passage summary
21 days at sea, the trip was 1727 miles, almost on the rumbline with an average speed of 3.5 knots. 238 hours of motoring (10 days), fuel consumption 0.85 l/h.
7 o’clock in the morning we get in the channel. The chart as an offset but the water is clear and there is no problem to find the way thru crystal clear water. At 8 o’clock we drop the anchor in front of the Government Warf.We met Custom at 9 o’clock.
Passage summary
21 days at sea, the trip was 1727 miles, almost on the rumbline with an average speed of 3.5 knots. 238 hours of motoring (10 days), fuel consumption 0.85 l/h. Phillipines 2009 Seatrial
Next day, I put back display and computer box and reconnected the satellites. Because they provided me a new SeaTalk cable, I opened the floors and changed it. Double checked he runs free. I also installed the ferrites. Then I made the dock setting. So far so good. As we were ready to go for the seatrial, a strong NE built up in the bay and we delayed it for the next day.
Seatrial went well, flat sea, no wind like it is recommended in the RTFM (Read the Fucking Manual). We know that it works for at least one hour. See when we are at sea.
Wednesday we cleared out and there was no mention about compliments, neither on the custom nor the immigration side, maybe they shared the quarantine fee.
We toped up water and fuel, did the last provisioning. At the fresh market, Pui was taking time choosing the vegetables. It’s important; it helps to keep them as long as possible on board.
Coming back to the yacht she puts everything at his place and starts to shout. It is really not in her habits. I was asking myself what the hell is wrong.
Half of the eggplants were rotten. That means as we were busy choosing our stuff, the lady at the shelf was replacing the good ones by rotten ones in the plastic bag, we have no doubt about that.
We tell you something; never stay too long at one place, because all the crap comes up. Definitely Davao is huge rip off & Co place. There is no one day that you don’t get cheated. It’s disgusting.
Tomorrow we leave, and let’s sail to Kavien, New Ireland Papua New Guinea.
Seatrial went well, flat sea, no wind like it is recommended in the RTFM (Read the Fucking Manual). We know that it works for at least one hour. See when we are at sea.Wednesday we cleared out and there was no mention about compliments, neither on the custom nor the immigration side, maybe they shared the quarantine fee.
We toped up water and fuel, did the last provisioning. At the fresh market, Pui was taking time choosing the vegetables. It’s important; it helps to keep them as long as possible on board.
Coming back to the yacht she puts everything at his place and starts to shout. It is really not in her habits. I was asking myself what the hell is wrong.
Half of the eggplants were rotten. That means as we were busy choosing our stuff, the lady at the shelf was replacing the good ones by rotten ones in the plastic bag, we have no doubt about that.
We tell you something; never stay too long at one place, because all the crap comes up. Definitely Davao is huge rip off & Co place. There is no one day that you don’t get cheated. It’s disgusting.
Tomorrow we leave, and let’s sail to Kavien, New Ireland Papua New Guinea.
Philipines 2009 Results, 3 weeks later!
On the Pilipino side we had to go to immigration to apply for extension that cost us PHP 6060.00 again. This is official fees for extension from day 19 to 59. The first 19 days are supposed to be free of charges.
On the Australian side, Raymarine after a 10 hour test on the bench in auto mode came to the conclusion that nothing is wrong with the system. By the time I was asking for more details, they already sent the stuff back. They supplied SeaTalk cables, spares fuses (the 2A one are not available in Davao). Ferrites were added on my request.
I could pick up the shipment Friday 15 of May at DHL representative in Davao.
Because the shipment was sent by Fedex with the right papers and came back by DHL, some were on the line the CI got lost and I had to pay duty. I sent the display with his cover and got it back without.
Now I’m dealing with something that is not reliable. Heading to destinations that does not have plethora of Raymarine service dealers I don’t understand that they didn’t send me a new one.
Maybe because 95% of their market deals with moored yachts in marinas having an average outgoing of 3 days per year, and plenty of service dealers a stone throw away from the pontoon.They don’t take a shit about blue cruisers. My entire fault, I chose the wrong product.
On the Australian side, Raymarine after a 10 hour test on the bench in auto mode came to the conclusion that nothing is wrong with the system. By the time I was asking for more details, they already sent the stuff back. They supplied SeaTalk cables, spares fuses (the 2A one are not available in Davao). Ferrites were added on my request.
I could pick up the shipment Friday 15 of May at DHL representative in Davao.
Because the shipment was sent by Fedex with the right papers and came back by DHL, some were on the line the CI got lost and I had to pay duty. I sent the display with his cover and got it back without.
Now I’m dealing with something that is not reliable. Heading to destinations that does not have plethora of Raymarine service dealers I don’t understand that they didn’t send me a new one.
Maybe because 95% of their market deals with moored yachts in marinas having an average outgoing of 3 days per year, and plenty of service dealers a stone throw away from the pontoon.They don’t take a shit about blue cruisers. My entire fault, I chose the wrong product.
Philippines 2009 Organising repairs
On the way back I contacted Westmarine to mention the problem. They answered me that talking to their technician I have to contact Raymarine. I asked for an email address they gave me.
As soon we were in Cell phone range I sent an email and as it was weekend I only got an answer from Raymarine UK Monday morning inviting me to contact Raymarine Asia. They gave me two contact numbers, one in Singapore, the other in Australia.
Singapore email address is: TG.Khoo@raymarine.com
Australia email address is: Tom.Green@raymarine.com
I decided to go for Singapore remembering that it went very fast when I sent my wind unit.
The technician from Singapore was useless, he wanted me to make custom connections with cables I didn’t have on board to measure voltages drops and see what happens.
My answer was strait, and I told them there is no way that I touch a product under warranty. He can do it in his lab if he wants, but not me on the yacht.
If the product would have been out of warranty yes no problems, and his suggestion was smart.
I asked them to give me an address where to send the unit.
I got answered to send the autopilot to Australia.
It was Thursday morning and quickly we posted the display and computer box via Fedex this time.
We also had to fill a paper called Certificate of Identification to have the product re entering the Philippines duty free (DHL was sending us to a lawyer for this point).
Every thing went smooth apart the fact that next day was Labour Day and then weekend. We got told that it will take 4 working days. Following the tracking number it is expected to arrive May 6th.
Wait and see. . .
As soon we were in Cell phone range I sent an email and as it was weekend I only got an answer from Raymarine UK Monday morning inviting me to contact Raymarine Asia. They gave me two contact numbers, one in Singapore, the other in Australia.
Singapore email address is: TG.Khoo@raymarine.com
Australia email address is: Tom.Green@raymarine.com
I decided to go for Singapore remembering that it went very fast when I sent my wind unit.
The technician from Singapore was useless, he wanted me to make custom connections with cables I didn’t have on board to measure voltages drops and see what happens.
My answer was strait, and I told them there is no way that I touch a product under warranty. He can do it in his lab if he wants, but not me on the yacht.If the product would have been out of warranty yes no problems, and his suggestion was smart.
I asked them to give me an address where to send the unit.
I got answered to send the autopilot to Australia.
It was Thursday morning and quickly we posted the display and computer box via Fedex this time.
We also had to fill a paper called Certificate of Identification to have the product re entering the Philippines duty free (DHL was sending us to a lawyer for this point).
Every thing went smooth apart the fact that next day was Labour Day and then weekend. We got told that it will take 4 working days. Following the tracking number it is expected to arrive May 6th.
Wait and see. . .
Philippines 2009 On the way to PNG
We cleared out April 16 and left Davao Tuesday 21 waiting for good winds. We had a good start, motored in the gulf of Davao to come out of thermal winds blowing the wrong way.
Passing cape St Augustin we encountered a strong counter current of 2 knots for 2 hours. Then we had comfortable winds from NNE 10 knots, and little counter current. Every thing is doing well on board Pui getting her sea legs.
Third day 2 o’clock in the morning, my 7 month old brand new autopilot failed (Raymarine not to mention the brand). The fuse from the seatalk blows. I check the system as requested in the RTFM and find nothing wrong. 2 blown fuses later we had to make the decision to steer the next 1200 NM to PNG to organise repair or come back 160 NM. Guess what we decided?
We motored back and next night went
thru thunderstorms with no damage. Every thing was shut off and unplugged. One time is enough.
Friday 24th at 4 o’clock in the afternoon I call Davao Pilot station on CH16 to give an ETA at Sta Ana Warf for 0700 PM, They organise the officials. I asked them to do it for Saturday morning.
Landfall
Saturday morning nothing happens. I send a text message to the custom and immigration officers who cleared us in the first time explaining that we are back because of technical problems. I got an answer from both, the first one telling me he will meet me the same day in the afternoon, and the second one to ask me how long will be my stay, I answered one week I guess.
Saturday evening a party was going on the Warf and we are still not cleared in.
Sunday morning 26th at 9 o’clock I call Pilot station again to inform them that we are anchored at Sta Ana Warf waiting for clearance. Nothing happened.
Monday morning I contact custom by phone. In the Philippines text message are number one.
Finally after many TM exchanges with our favourite custom officer Mr Ebert Montero, he send us the quarantine officer because we left Philippines territory (of course you can catch a lot of diseases out at sea). He boarded us Monday 27th at 16h00. It was not the same than the first one.
For the fees he asked me how much I was charged first time. ??? I answered I must look in my papers and I have no cash on board. He answered me, you will be here for a wile and we will meet at Sta Ana Warf. You pay me then. I came to the conclusion that even with a recipe it’s not sure that this fee is official.
Then I TM custom again and finally got permission to make landfall. Later I gave him the clearance paper and it was no mention about compliment.Being a polite boy, one week later, I contact immigration again to clear out our arrival. Finally a lady officer (the boss of the one who cleared us in the first time) came at the Warf and stamped us in and told us that we may have to pay something at the office (what? Compliment I said for myself, of course).
Passing cape St Augustin we encountered a strong counter current of 2 knots for 2 hours. Then we had comfortable winds from NNE 10 knots, and little counter current. Every thing is doing well on board Pui getting her sea legs.
Third day 2 o’clock in the morning, my 7 month old brand new autopilot failed (Raymarine not to mention the brand). The fuse from the seatalk blows. I check the system as requested in the RTFM and find nothing wrong. 2 blown fuses later we had to make the decision to steer the next 1200 NM to PNG to organise repair or come back 160 NM. Guess what we decided?
We motored back and next night went
thru thunderstorms with no damage. Every thing was shut off and unplugged. One time is enough.Friday 24th at 4 o’clock in the afternoon I call Davao Pilot station on CH16 to give an ETA at Sta Ana Warf for 0700 PM, They organise the officials. I asked them to do it for Saturday morning.
Landfall
Saturday morning nothing happens. I send a text message to the custom and immigration officers who cleared us in the first time explaining that we are back because of technical problems. I got an answer from both, the first one telling me he will meet me the same day in the afternoon, and the second one to ask me how long will be my stay, I answered one week I guess.
Saturday evening a party was going on the Warf and we are still not cleared in.
Sunday morning 26th at 9 o’clock I call Pilot station again to inform them that we are anchored at Sta Ana Warf waiting for clearance. Nothing happened.
Monday morning I contact custom by phone. In the Philippines text message are number one.
Finally after many TM exchanges with our favourite custom officer Mr Ebert Montero, he send us the quarantine officer because we left Philippines territory (of course you can catch a lot of diseases out at sea). He boarded us Monday 27th at 16h00. It was not the same than the first one.
For the fees he asked me how much I was charged first time. ??? I answered I must look in my papers and I have no cash on board. He answered me, you will be here for a wile and we will meet at Sta Ana Warf. You pay me then. I came to the conclusion that even with a recipe it’s not sure that this fee is official.
Then I TM custom again and finally got permission to make landfall. Later I gave him the clearance paper and it was no mention about compliment.Being a polite boy, one week later, I contact immigration again to clear out our arrival. Finally a lady officer (the boss of the one who cleared us in the first time) came at the Warf and stamped us in and told us that we may have to pay something at the office (what? Compliment I said for myself, of course).
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